Recently, we proudly launched the third instalment in our SHOWCASE series: Colombia - Jeffry Motta - Yeast Inoculated Washed. A coffee that blew our minds from the first cupping, thanks to its frankly outrageous level of florals and fruitiness, we knew this was a coffee that more than lived up to the SHOWCASE name.
While many factors contribute to this coffee's remarkable profile, including two rounds of fermentation and the application of a specific strain of yeast, it’s also greatly determined by the highly prized variety—pink bourbon.
Whilst pink bourbon coffee cherries are indeed known for their distinct ‘salmon’ hue, research suggests that the variety might not be a bourbon after all, with itsstory being altogether more perplexing than at first glance. Let’s get into it!
Understanding coffee genus, species and varieties
Before we examine Pink Bourbon more closely, it’s helpful to have a broader understanding of coffee varieties and to clarify what we actually mean when we say ‘bourbon’.
Coffee genus and species
Although all coffee plants are of the same genus ‘Coffea’, there are actually at least 129 different species within that genus. This includes the two most well-known and commonly cultivated for consumption species: Coffea Arabica (typically referred to simply as ‘Arabica’) and Coffea Canephora (more widely known as Robusta).
Robusta coffees are known for their higher caffeine content and bitter, earthy profile. They are often (but not exclusively) used by high-volume commercial coffee chains because they are easier to cultivate and grow en masse.
On the other hand, Arabica is not only more complex to cultivate—requiring specific conditions and a lot of close attention and care—but it is also much more complex in the cup, boasting fruit notes, acidity, and sweetness. Arabica tends to be favoured by specialty roasters like Dear Green (we exclusively roast Arabica coffee!).
Coffee varieties
Within these species, there is yet another layer—there are many, many varieties, all of which bring their own unique flavours and characteristics to the cup. The list is ever-growing, with new varieties continually cultivated, whether through the discovery of naturally occurring hybrids or mutations or through intentional development for climate resilience, increased yield, or disease resistance.
One such example of this is bourbon coffee. A natural mutation of the typica variety, bourbon is known for its sweet, nutty flavours and its full body. With sub-varieties including yellow, red, pink, and orange, each possesses its own subtle, unique characteristics. So why does pink bourbon stand out from the pack?
The confusing origins of pink bourbon
This is where it gets interesting. For years, Pink Bourbon has been thought to have been a spontaneous hybrid of two standard varieties—yellow and red bourbon—and so named after the pinkish colour their cherries produce when ripe.
The earliest discovery of Pink Bourbon is traced back to Huila, Colombia, where it began to emerge in amongst Red and Yellow Bourbon, and it certainly perplexed growers. Occam’s Razor would dictate that Pink Bourbon is a mutant variety born of these other varieties; if you research the subject, many sources across the web will still report exactly that. However, more recent studies indicate that this might not be the case - it seems we might have an impostor on our hands!
According to a 2023 report by Cafe Imports, the variety—likely descended from an Ethiopian Landrace—lives among its Bourbon brethren, or rather, what may actually be a distant cousin. This begs the question: how on earth did this variety end up in Colombia? Although the specific answer remains unclear, the same study posits that it may have been a quiet attempt to enrich the local gene pool, leading to an origin story that, for now, remains shrouded in mystery.
What does Pink Bourbon taste like?
Regardless of its unique origin story, Pink Bourbon is revered among the coffee community —and for good reason. Capable of standing shoulder to shoulder with some of the most sought-after varieties in coffee, including Geshas and Pacamaras, Pink Bourbon is a go-to for competitive baristas due to its complex flavour profile. Notably, it was used in the winning routine of the 2023 World Barista Championships.
In our newColombia - Jeffry Motta - Yeast Inoculated Washed, that’s precisely what we’ve got. With a clean cup that showcases intense floral and fruity characteristics, its profile nods to what we’d expect from an Ethiopian coffee. It’s like Shakespeare said, a bourbon by any other name would taste as sweet!
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